I've finally finished the Challenge "Princess Slip." I made it out of inexpensive candelight colored satin with white lace and plan to use it as a nightgown. I received my copy of the pattern through the mail, so I didn't have to mess with putting the pattern together, but I did trace a copy of it in order to keep the pattern I received in its original condition and to be able to make any necessary changes.
I was able to use the pattern and directions as written, to the point where I need to sew the side seams; The directions did not include sewing the side seams. I sewed them before joining the shoulder seams. I needed to shorten the "slip" 4 inches before I added the flounce.The fabric used ravels quite a lot, so I have used 'french seams' on all of the seams except where there is lace insertion.
When I do insertion lace I starch the lace first to make it more workable. In this project I ended up starching the fabric in the area where I was going to put the lace. The satin puckered more than I expected it to when I sewed the first insertion down the center front.
When I do insertion lace, I pin the lace into position then baste it by hand. Next, I sew with my machine set on the smallest stitch per inch possible (on my old Kenmore it is 12 st/in) and sew as close as possible to the header on the right side of the lace. Then I repeat the process going down the other side. After giving this section a good pressing,not ironing... I cut the fabric behind the lace down the center using my "duckbill" scissors. I press the fabric away from the lace and set my machine to a tiny zigzag and 12 sts/in, and sew over the previous stitching. Another pressing, and I trim the fabric away from the lace as close as I can get it.
As I said before, this fabric ravels quite a lot. I decided to make a facing for the back placket. I used the slip itself to make the pattern and cut it about as wide as the original for the folded side and twice as wide for the side that will hold the buttons. This keeps it from raveling, gives it a nice finished edge, and just enough body. The cut edge is pinked.
Since I will be using this as a nightgown the button closure in the back won't work very well. The garment is made to fit the curves of the body and it has a long opening in the back. I shortened the back opening and used silk ribbons to make a closure that will tie. It is much easier to get in and out of.
The other change that I made to the pattern was at the side seams. The pinned together paper pattern seemed to fit well, but when I made it in the satin it was about two inches too small in circumference. to correct this problem I added a one inch wide piece of lace insertion in each side seam.
Pattern Review Checklist:
Pattern Description: 1912 Princess Slip Pattern 0336
Pattern Sizing: 36 in. Bust
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes!
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the look of the insertion lace and the pleated flounce.
Fabric Used: Polyester Bridal Satin,Polyester laces, 7mm. Silk Ribbon, silk thread.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I shortened the 'skirt' part of the pattern 4 in., added lace insertion to both side seams, and changed the back closure from a button closure to a ribbon closure.
Would you recommend this pattern to others? Yes
Conclusion:
This was not that difficult to make. A knowledge of lace insertion techniques and pleating techniques are a must. Also, the pattern directions need to include when to sew the side seams.
VPLL Checklist
Pattern Name: Princess Slip, March 24,1912
Sewer’s Skill Level: Advance, Intermediate, Beginner
Pattern Rating: 1-Not a Fan, 2 – So-So, 3 – Good/Average, 4-Better than Average, 5-I LOVED It! and why? I love the look of delicate lace insertion. It is an heirloom technique that has, for the most part, been relegated to Christening Gowns.
What skill level would someone need to sew this pattern and why? This pattern will need someone with intermediate sewing knowledge and skills. The techniques for lace insertion and pleating could be too challenging for a beginner.
Were the instructions easy to follow? If not, what needs to be changed? The instructions were very good, with the exception of leaving out the side seam step. It might be nice to include more detailed instructions for doing insertion lace and either instructions for pleating and/or a link/site with that information.
How was the fit/sizing? Did it correspond to what you thought? The fit was a little closer than I expected. If I make it again I will add to the overall width of the pattern.
Did you make any pattern alterations? aso, what alterations did you make? Where they fit or design alterations? I changed the back opening from a button closure to a tie closure; I shortened the back placket; and I added lace insertion to the two side seams. The back opening was changed for convenience; it would be very difficult for many people to reach behind and work the buttons. The insertion lace in the side seams was done to make the slip a little bigger.
Other notes:
I love the way this slip/nightie looks and fits. It would make a cute summer dress if the 'slip' part of the pattern were shortened to hip length and the pleated flounce used as the skirt. I would also change the back closure to a zipper.
To see the project pics and links to blogs from other group members who are making this slip, click on the link below.
http://vpll1912project.org/category/ladies/lingerie/e0336_slip/
Nicely blogged!
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